I finally bought a printer so I can print out patterns at any odd time. The first time I made this dress style I had printed out the pattern pieces on a printer that messed with the size. Check the damn scale when they tell you people! Everything was printed slightly small so I used the size 4/5 pieces for the neck/hem for a size 3 dress. This time I had a correct size, but it didn’t make too much of a difference. This time I squared off the yoke corners because I didn’t care for sewing the curve and I don’t think it is that noticeable.

Octopus Dress - Front

Front

This time I put bias tape around the arm holes because tiny rolled hems are EVIL. I just couldn’t get it to happen over the seam. Maybe it is harder with french seams? Once again I used french seams because I think they look and feel great.

I thought I was so cleaver with the bias tape, so of course I messed it up! I thought I could get away with just sandwiching the tape over the raw edge and sewing everything together in one go; some of the raw edge of the dress peaked out. I didn’t notice this until I have done both sides. I am becoming a master seam ripper.

The better way to sew on the bias tape:

  • Unfold the bias tape
  • Pin the bias tape around the armhole with the raw edges of the tape and dress touching, right side to right side
  • Sew together along the crease closest to the edge (for 1/4″ tape it is 1/4″ from the edge). This point is how far the tape will show on the right side.
  • Fold the tape over the fabric like a little sandwich. The back side should meet up with the first line of stitches.
  • Sew down the whole fabric sandwich close to the edge.

That’s it! Sure you have to sew twice, but the raw fabric definitely won’t peak out plus the tape is held down to the very edge on the right side (unless you do it backwards in which case the inside will be nicer – oops! I did that once).

Octopus Dress - Button

Front - Button Detail

I go crazy trying to find good buttons. Whatever colour I am looking for seems to be the only one not available. I ended up going with simple 20mm yellow buttons.

Octopus Dress - Back

Back

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