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My vacation is coming to an end! I start work Monday. Today I sent off a package of mostly little clothing to my sizzler for my niece and nephew.

Package Prep

Containing:

I hope they all like it!

Today I gifted my first quilt to my friend. He is having his first baby in October and today was his wedding.

Another little dress for baby F! It is a size 2 dress, but I bet she can wear it this summer while still a baby. The size 2 shirt was a bit short for the dress so hopefully this dress will (sort of) fit for the summer.

I really like the fabric, Through the Forest in Grey by Studio E House Designer. It is a bit classier than my usual choice for little clothes; I could easily see this print on an adult. The solid is Kona Cotton in Paprika I believe.

Branches Dress

There are a few birds hidden in the branches.

Branches Dress

The buttons are a simple dark wood.

Branches Dress Back

The gathers on the back are slightly concentrated to the left. Oops! I’m not sure if other people would notice.

Hello Lion Kimono! You are AWESOME! I would like to take full credit for the level of awesome achieved by this kimono, but 90% of it comes from the fabric. The fabric is a double gauze Japanese import from Echino. Bright turquoise, yellow clouds, hidden birds and, of course, lions!

I have made this pattern before from Habitual. In fact, it was my first time on a sewing machine.

I made it size 4T to leave some growing room for my little lion aka 2.5 year old nephew. Recently he climbed a rock hill and roared, scaring the nearby drinking teenagers. I hope he likes it!

Lion Kimono Front

I think the lion placement works well. Using such a large scale print would be difficult for a baby sized kimono.

Lion Kimono Back

And two lions on the back as well.

Now that I know how to properly sew on binding, it was much easier to sew the binding around the shoulders compared to my last try.

Lion Kimono - Detail

Sneaky hiding bird!

I used linen for the ties. It was my first time using linen and I didn’t really know what I was getting myself into. It was also my first time using double gauze. All my troubles sewing this kimono resulted from my lack of experience with the materials.

Notes on double gauze and linen after the jump…

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I got my first sewing commission to make a size 2 bird dress. The first bird dress was my first dress. I can definitely see the improvement in my sewing skills! This time I put green binding tape around the arm holes instead of a tiny rolled hem.

Bird Dress 2.0

I still really like the acorn buttons. I think I might have to buy more just in case I need to make another bird dress.

Bird Dress 2.0 Buttons

I still love love love french seams! I used them for all the dresses I have made and I don’t plan to stop!

Bird Dress - French Seams

I don’t have a serger so the quick alternative is a zig-zag stitch. I did use that for the seams in the diaper cover because they only touch the diaper, not any skin. The only downside (besides taking extra time) I have found for french seams is the extra bulk created when hemming. A better sewing machine wouldn’t notice the extra thickness, but mine is very basic.

Since the mushroom top (size 2) worked as a short baby dress, I decided a diaper cover was in order. I used the free pattern from Prudent  Baby.

Mushroom Diaper Cover

The result! I still have to try it on the baby…

Mushroom Dress

I’m not sure if you can tell from the picture, but these baby thighs are huuuuuge!

To accommodate her thighs, this 7 month old baby wears 24 month capris for jeans. They will slim out when she start running around, but I increased the elastic length for the leg holes so they won’t pinch this summer.

I did have to make one modification to the pattern. My left over fabric wasn’t big enough for the full back piece (it is bigger than the front to allow for diaper bum). I added a small crotch piece, shown in the picture below.

Diaper Cover - Crotch

My only trouble making this cover happened when trying to feed the elastic in casing around the first leg hole. I could only get the safety pin over the seams in the direction they were pressed! Otherwise the seam would get bunched and I hit a dead end. This issue wouldn’t have been a big problem if I just had the two seams, but the extra seam due to the extra crotch piece was in the wrong direction.

I had to sew the casing again, leaving the hole to feed the elastic at the extra crotch piece. It worked!

In other news, I hate when I have to “fold over 1/*”, press, fold over another 1/*” and press again.” It is especially annoying on small curved parts. In better news, I have noticed my sewing machine skills have improved drastically over this past month!




Lion Kimono in Progress

Originally uploaded by craftytalk

I cut my new Echino fabric! Pictured is a future size 4T kimono. The tangerine linen is for the ties.

I am also making a size 4/5 dress and a scarf. I bought some copper (lightish brown) linen for the back of the scarf. I am not sure which colour to use for the dress neck and hem.

The babies came to visit! I turned over my stash of handmade clothes. The dresses are too big for baby, but the mushroom top and octo jacket were put to use.

Mushroom Shirt in Action

Here is 7 month old baby F rocking the size 2 mushroom top over a black onesie. Plenty of room to grow.

Mushroom Top

Chilling on the traffic quilt.

As expected, the 2 yr old was slightly harder to pin down for pictures. He put on the jacket and at first all I saw was…

the back!

the back!

See what finally slowed him down after the jump…

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I picked up the fabric for this shirt from the Fabricana (Coquitlam, BC – review to come) customer appreciation sale for 25% off. I had a vision of the buttons and I had to have them. I picked them up at Button Button (Vancouver, BC – review to come).

Mushroom Top

Mushroom Top - Front

I made this shirt a size 2. My 7 month old niece is coming to visit today, and I will see how the sizing works for a baby dress. My niece is a giant baby but I think the  arm holes might be a little large.

Mushroom Buttons

button love

Buttons frustrate me! It is so hard to find the right colour, size and style. But when you find the perfect button, it makes the hassle worth it. I can now sew on buttons like a semi-pro. Maybe I should try zippers next?

Once again I used french seams because they rock my world! I just wish I had a better machine to zip over multiple layers. I have feed issues when I hem over the french seams; I end up feeding it along by hand in those areas, but it doesn’t always work out.

I finally bought a printer so I can print out patterns at any odd time. The first time I made this dress style I had printed out the pattern pieces on a printer that messed with the size. Check the damn scale when they tell you people! Everything was printed slightly small so I used the size 4/5 pieces for the neck/hem for a size 3 dress. This time I had a correct size, but it didn’t make too much of a difference. This time I squared off the yoke corners because I didn’t care for sewing the curve and I don’t think it is that noticeable.

Octopus Dress - Front

Front

This time I put bias tape around the arm holes because tiny rolled hems are EVIL. I just couldn’t get it to happen over the seam. Maybe it is harder with french seams? Once again I used french seams because I think they look and feel great.

I thought I was so cleaver with the bias tape, so of course I messed it up! I thought I could get away with just sandwiching the tape over the raw edge and sewing everything together in one go; some of the raw edge of the dress peaked out. I didn’t notice this until I have done both sides. I am becoming a master seam ripper.

The better way to sew on the bias tape:

  • Unfold the bias tape
  • Pin the bias tape around the armhole with the raw edges of the tape and dress touching, right side to right side
  • Sew together along the crease closest to the edge (for 1/4″ tape it is 1/4″ from the edge). This point is how far the tape will show on the right side.
  • Fold the tape over the fabric like a little sandwich. The back side should meet up with the first line of stitches.
  • Sew down the whole fabric sandwich close to the edge.

That’s it! Sure you have to sew twice, but the raw fabric definitely won’t peak out plus the tape is held down to the very edge on the right side (unless you do it backwards in which case the inside will be nicer – oops! I did that once).

Octopus Dress - Button

Front - Button Detail

I go crazy trying to find good buttons. Whatever colour I am looking for seems to be the only one not available. I ended up going with simple 20mm yellow buttons.

Octopus Dress - Back

Back

I finally finished the epic octopus jacket! I made it for my nephew (2.5 years) to pass down to my niece (7 months) when it gets too small. It is about a size 5, but I think a smaller kid could wear it with the sleeves rolled up. My nephew is big for his age so it will probably fit in the fall.

It was somewhat difficult and time consuming because it was my first time doing a jacket, sleeves, appliqué, collar, lining… you get the picture. It was originally supposed to just be a blue jacket with octopus lining, but after a few people told me they thought the octopus print should be on the outside, I made it reversible.

Next time I would zig-zag (I don’t have a serger) the edges of the curved parts of the sleeve before assembly. I found it awkward and impossible to fully zig-zag the armpit area for the canvas after it was together; I ended up doing sections by hand.

At first I thought setting the sleeves was going to be impossible; the sleeves seemed to have too much fabric. It ended up being simple if you pin the top and bottom first and then distribute each side of the sleeve separately.

Octo Jacket- Blue Front

Blue Front

At first I bought some brown buttons, but I ended up going with the orange with brown edges vegetable ivory (expensive) buttons. I went with two extra buttons for decoration because the blue is quite plain. The octopus wraps around most of the sleeve. It was a pain trying to sew around all those legs!

Octopus Applique

I tried to use very flat buttons so they hopefully won’t be annoying on the inside.

Octo Jacket - Blue Side Open

Blue Side Opened

This printed fabric is so soft, I think it would feel much better against skin then the blue canvas.

Octo Jacket - Brown Side

Brown Side

I only put 2 buttons on the print side. Next time I would put some fusible interfacing between the layers where the buttons go.

Octo Jacket - Brown Side Open

Brown Side - Buttons

Which side do you prefer?

Work through the pain.

Flickr Photos

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